Coast to Coast (C2C) walk England - the overview

Trevor and I will be tackling the Coast to Coast Walk next northern summer i.e.2013. We will be walking in a group with a guide. The company we have chosen is Northwestwalks.

Northwestwalks Coast to Coast guided tours follow Wainwrights famous 190 mile long-distance route across the North of England. From St Bees on the Irish Sea to Robin Hoods Bay on the North Sea the route leads through spectacular scenery and contrasting landscapes, crossing the Lake District, Yorkshire Dales and North York Moors National Parks.

There is a wealth of history along the route.

Initially the route follows the coastline around St Bees Head before turning east and entering the Lake District National Park. The Lake District is home to spectacular lake and mountain scenery. Although not high the mountains are rugged with steep footpaths. From Shap the Coast to Coast route levels to cross the undulating farmland between the Lake District and Yorkshire Dales, where the high ground returns but with less demanding ascents. At Richmond we leave the Dales and walk across the low lying Vale of Mowbray to Ingleby Cross and the beginning of the North York Moors. From here the trail leads on a roller coaster ride across the heather covered hills to the North Sea and Robin Hoods Bay.

The Coast to Coast is a lengthy challenging 'trek' and should not be under estimated, the valleys through the middle section, and the arable land in the eastern section make for straightforward walking, but the hills of the Lake District, Yorkshire Dales and North York Moors are rugged and gradients can be steep, so walkers must be physically fit, and equipped to meet it. The terrain on this trail is a diversity of rocky mountain paths, limestone plateau’s, country lanes, rolling hillsides and farmland.

The guided coast to coast holidays are group holidays with a guide. Each night on the trail we will stay in a different village along the route in selected accommodation, with full English breakfast provided. Our luggage will be transferred for us between overnight stops. We only need to carry a day pack: wet weather gear, extra layers in case it gets cold, lunch, drinks and whatever else we need for the day.

Start point: St Bees, Cumbria

End point: Robin Hoods Bay, North Yorkshire

Direction of walk: West to East

Grade: A challenging route walked at a steady pace and therefore a good level of fitness (stamina and cardiovascular) is required.

Group size: There will be a maximum of 12 people plus guide.

Terrain: The varies from rocky paths (especially in the National Parks), to farmland and country lanes. The National Parks provide the added challenges of some steep ascents and descents (perfect if you like walking in the mountains and hills). Ropes are not required. Footpaths can be hazardous (loose rock, wet, vegetation, scree, steep paths, vehicles, etc) so care and a sense of awareness is required.

Included in the price of the holiday are 14 nights accommodation with full English breakfast, experienced guide, luggage transfer and personal accommodation to accommodation transfer if required (so it is possible to bail out of a day and rest rather than walk).

Not included in the price: Evening meals, packed lunches, drinks and snacks, travel insurance, travel to St Bees and from Robin Hoods Bay, souvenirs, etc. Even so, the price is very reasonable compared to guided walks here in Australia.

Accommodation is provided in a variety of selected comfortable B&Bs, Guest Houses, small hotels and Inns. Types and standards of accommodation vary from village to village, and room sizes and facilities vary within accommodation. Many properties are hundreds of years old, and although many rooms have been converted to ensuite it has not been possible to do so in some properties or rooms due to space limitations or buildings having listed status (a property preservation order). Most rooms are ensuite but we expect to share a bathroom (i.e. have a non ensuite room) for one or two or nights of a full tour.

B&Bs in England are typically good value and country pubs are often full of character so some of the adventure of this trip will be the places we stay.

Guides: As well as leading the way the experienced Guide will provide daily information about the route its varied landscapes and local history. The guide will also provide information about the villages, places to eat, etc.

Meals: A full English breakfast is included in the cost and is served at the accommodation. Packed lunches (average cost £5) are available to buy from the accommodation or local shop, and evening meals (average cost £12) are generally available from local pubs.

Weather in Northern England is best described as changeable but there can be long dry warm spells. Walkers should be prepared for all possibilities as weather, particularly in the mountains, can change quickly. Weather statistics are available from the Met Office at http://www.metoffice.gov.uk/climate/uk/. If severe weather conditions prevail during the holiday the guide may have to change the route, delay or cancel a day’s walk.


Route description

Each stage (day) of the walk is set down in a separate post. These posts are intended to provide some further information about the route and points of interest. All distances, timings and heights are approximate and are provided as an aid to describe the route. The time to cover the distance includes time spent walking and time for breaks.

Day 1: St Bees
Arrive at St Bees. We will probably fly into Heathrow and then take the train from London to St Bees, a 5 hour trip. We will be staying at Stonehouse Farm which is about 100m from the railway station. We will be meeting our guide and fellow walkers at a welcome meeting in the guest lounge, Stonehouse Farm at 5pm.

Days 2 to 14 are walking days and each of these days is detail in the 13 stage posting.

Day 15: Robin Hoods Bay
Robin Hoods Bay is our walking destination which will will get to at the end of stage 13. It is a picturesque once fishing village and reputed smugglers haunt. Being built on the hillside the street from top to bottom of the village is the final steep descent/ascent on route.

And after the walk?
We will probably spend a few days just south of Robin Hoods Bay as I have a heap of ancestors from this area of the Yorkshire coast as well as the area a little inland from Scarborough.

C2C Stage 1: St Bees to Ennerdale Bridge

Well, this is our first day of walking on the Coast to Coast trail. With 22.5 kms ahead of us I hope that the weather is fine and that we manage this challenging first day without too many problems.

St Bees to Ennerdale Bridge (village height above sea level 100m)
Distance 14 miles/ 22.5km - Strenuous - Height Gain 685m/2250ft – 7.5 hours

Setting out from Stone House Farm in St Bees at 9:00am.
Arriving at Ennerdale Bridge at approximately 4:30pm

As far as most walkers are concerned, 'Mile Zero' on the path is at the Coast to Coast sign by the RNLI hut facing the Irish Sea. A plaque on the seafront marks the start of Wainwrights coast to coast walk. Tradition says to dip your toe in the sea and then collect a small pebble to carry with you to the east coast.


The day offers varied scenery. Initially our route heads north along the coastal path with views of Scotland and the Isle of Man. We leave the coastal path and head east towards the Lake District Mountains. The route passes through the villages of Sandwith, Moor Row and Cleator followed by a steep walk up Dent (352m), the high point of the day. Admire the views before continuing across the hilltop and descending steeply down a forest track to Nannycatch Beck. We follow the beck and then a roadside path to Ennerdale Bridge. Ennerdale Bridge is at the edge of the Lake District National Park.

Most walkers find this first day a bit of a struggle, particularly the haul up and over Dent Hill into Ennerdale Bridge.

Notable landmarks:

• The cleft of Fleswick Bay composed of a secluded pebbly beach surrounded by red sandstone cliffs with some unusually weathered boulders on the shore, if you can be bothered to make the short detour. The bay marks the dividing line between the constituent parts of St Bees Head: South Head and North Head.
• St Bees Lighthouse
• Sandwith - the first settlement of note on the trail almost 5 miles/8km along the path from St Bees.
• Moor Row is half way to Ennerdale Bridge and has a couple of places where food and drinks can be purchased.
• Cleator ... an ancient village with little to recommend it today
• The long and sweaty climb up Dent Hill takes about an hour from Cleator. At the top, provided the weather is clear, there should be views to the Lakeland fells ahead and the sea behind, with the gigantic plant of Sellafield to the south-west, Egremont before it and, on a good day, the silhouette of the Isle of Man and Galloway (Scotland) across the Solway Firth.
• The path descends Raven Crag hill which is quite steep and poles could be handy. It is good training and scenic.
• Ennerdale Bridge is the first of the self-consciously pretty Lakeland villages occupying a wonderful location spanning the River Ehen.

On route at Cleator are a small shop and the Three Tuns Pub.

Ennerdale Bridge has two village pubs serving evening meals and packed lunches.

C2C Stage 2: Ennerdale Bridge to Rosthwaite

Day 3 is a 14 mile (22 1/2 km) section graded as strenuous. I hope taht we are up to tackling this walk after our first day on the trail.

Ennerdale Bridge (100m) to Rosthwaite (100m)
Distance 14 miles/22.5km - Strenuous - Height Gain 530m/1740ft - 8 hours

9:00am start from Ennerdale Bridge. We should arrive in Rosthwaite/Stonethwaite around 5pm.

We follow the country lanes to Ennerdale Water then the rocky path along the banks of the Lake. At the far end of the Lake we take the forest track that climbs gradually along Ennerdale valley, walking alongside the River Liza, to the remote Black Sail Hut YHA (290m). The hostel is left open during the day which provides shelter from the weather and a chance to make a cup of tea in the kitchen.

From the YHA we continue to the bottom of Loft Beck and a steep ascent to the high point of the day at 600m. The views back to the sea are spectacular. We follow the rocky path across the fell and descend to Honister (330m). Continue descending into the beautiful Borrowdale valley to the village of Seatoller (120m) then follow the footpaths to Rosthwaite.

Well, this should be an interesting day. The chances of fine weather are not good as we will be heading for the spot that records the highest rainfall in England (Sprinkling Tarn, just south of Seathwaite, receives 185 inches .... yes, inches ... (4.7metres) of rain a year! Now, that is why we carry wet weather gear. It isn't just to add weight to our packs, after all. There may be a real purpose! Afternoon rain is very common even when mornings are clear.

Seatoller is a National Trust village which is just a short distance before our destination for the day: Rosthwaite.

At Honister there is a slate mine and shop (serving tea and coffee).

Rosthwaite has a pub serving evening meals and a small shop where you can buy packed lunches. Nearby Stonethwaite has a pub serving evening meals.

Note: We will stop at the 28 mile mark today.

C2C Stage 3: Rosthwaite to Grasmere

Day 4 and a strenuous day although the distance is a mere 10 miles (16km) and the height gain is moderate, too.

Rosthwaite (100m) to Grasmere (75m)
Distance 10 miles/16km – Strenuous - Height Gain 530m/1740ft - 6 hours

Starting at the 28 mile mark:  

and finishing at the 38 mile mark:

Start at 9:00am from Rosthwaite. We should arrive in Grasmere around 3pm.

We take the track alongside Stonethwaite Beck then a rocky path climbing steadily alongside Greenup Gill. We walk steeply up the steps and rocks (a bit tricky but not technical) to the left side of Lining Crag (500m) and admire the views to the north and east. Continue to Greenup Edge, today’s high point at 620m, and then descend the rocky path to the head of Far Easedale. The guide then considers several factors and decides to either follow the ridge walk across Calf Crag, Gibson Knott and Helm Crag before descending steeply into Grasmere or take the less arduous route down Far Easedale.

Strenuous ... doesn't sound good after the last two days.

In good weather this part of the walk is a Lakeland classic.  Let's hope that the weather is fine.

The first bit is a straightforward climb up past Lining Crag to Greenup Edge.The path tracks besides Stonethwaite Beck which is a continuous torrent of white water with occasional waterfalls after rain.

At the top of Lining Crag, weather permitting, it is possible to see Scafell Pike, England's highest summit at 978m.

William Wordsworth called the valley in which Grasmere sits "the fairest place on earth". Heady words. It will be interesting to see why he thought so highly of this valley. Grasmere is the home to Dove Cottage where Wordsworth lived for about 10 years. It is open to the public daily from 9:30am to 5pm.

There are many little shops, cafes and a few pubs serving evening meals in Grasmere.

C2C Stage 4: Grasmere to Glenridding

Day 5 is supposedly another strenuous day even though it is only an 8 mile stage. Time will tell.

Grasmere (75m) to Glenridding (150m).
Distance 8 miles/13km - Strenuous - Height Gain 505m/1655ft - 5 hours

A late start - 11:30am from Grasmere (stating at the 38 mile mark) with an expected arrival in Glenridding (around the 46 mile mark) of 4:30pm.

This short stage is a great hike with views back to Grasmere and, once over the pass, down across Grisedale to Patterdale, another gorgeous valley with the lake of Ullswater twinkling away to the north. 

We follow the lane to Mill Bridge then take the rocky path which climbs steadily alongside Tongue Gill to Grisedale Tarn (550m). From Grisedale Tarn we follow the route down hill alongside Grisedale Beck to Patterdale valley and the village of Glenridding on the shores of Ullswater.

Note: Close to the outlet of Grisedale Tarn is the ‘Brothers Parting Stone’. This is the point that William Wordsworth last met his brother John who later died when his ship sank at sea.

There are two other routes from Grisedale Tarn to the Patterdale valley ... both considerably more challenging than the one we will be taking.

There are a few pubs for meals and village shops in Glenridding.

C2C Stage 5: Glenridding to Shap

 Day 6 and a little shorter, just, than some of the other days!

Glenridding (150m) to Shap (250m)
Distance 17 miles/27km - Height Gain 760m/2500ft - 9 hours

An early start today with an 8:30am departure from Glenridding. We expect to arrive in Slap aroun5:30pm.

See the previous stage for the first bit of the terrain profile. We will be starting just before mile 46 and finish at mile 61ish.

This stage sees us leave the Lacke District however the crags, knotts, pikes and fells that have been our high-level companions for the past few stages won't let us go without a struggle. Be prepared to be very tired indeed at the end of this stage. The long climb up to Kidsty Pike, the gnarly descent from it to Haweswater and the undulating trawl along the lake's edge adds up to well over 1300 metres of total ascent. Together it all conspires to make the seemingly harmless spin down over fields and farmland to Shap enough to curse the very name of Wainwright.

So, here goes.

A short valley walk then a sharp steep walk up to Boredale Hause (400m), the rocky path now climbs with less gradient past Angle Tarn and close to Satura Crag (600m), it descends to 500m and then climbs sharply again to round The Knott (739m). The route then turns sharp left onto High Street, an old Roman Road, and then right onto Kidsty Pike (780m) the highest point on route. From here look back across the Lake District and then turn to view the Eden Valley and the Pennine Mountains. We descend gradually at first then steeply down to Haweswater (250m), and follow the rocky path alongside the banks of the reservoir to Burnbanks. The terrain eases as the route crosses undulating farmland to Shap.
Notes:

• The Romans built High Street to link the Roman forts at Ambleside and Penrith.
• Haweswater reservoir was created by Manchester Corporation when they dammed and flooded the valley in 1935.
• The ruins of Shap Abbey stand by the banks of the River Lowther. 

There are several pubs serving evening meals and a few village shops.

C2C Stage 6: Shap to Kirkby Stephen

Day 7. This stage is another long one ... although not designated "strenuous"

Shap (250m) to Kirkby Stephen (180m)
Distance 20 miles/32km - Long moderate - Height Gain 150m/490ft - 8.5 hours

Those who struggled over the previous stage may be less than delighted to learn that this stage is another long one. While long there is a plus ... no prolonged gradients to contend with so can be viewed as a "recovery day".

Another early start. We will be leaving Shap at 8:30am and should arrive in Kirkby Stephen around 5pm.

Setting out from mile 61ish our destination is mile 80.

This stage has a number of prehistoric sites although it would be easy to pass them by without recognising them.

The Lake District Mountains are left behind and the gradients ease to cross the rolling farmland and hills in Eden Valley. We follow the footpaths across the limestone plateau passing the secluded walled village of Oddendale with two concentric stone circles only a few minutes off the track and the granite boulders deposited by ice age glaciers. Orton lies a mile to the south of the route. There is a second, more impressive, stone circle a mile to the east of Orton on the Coast to Coast path.

We continue over rolling farmland and across the moors passing Sunbiggin, the hidden remains of several ancient settlements, and Smardale Bridge to the market town Kirkby Stephen.

There are banks, shops, pubs and cafes in Kirkby Stephen.

C2C Stage 7: Kirkby Stephen to Keld

This is the 8th day ... having completed 6 days of walking today we come to the half way point.

Kirkby Stephen (180m) to Keld (350m)
Distance 13 miles/21km - Strenuous - Height Gain 515m/1690ft - 7 hours

This stage is something of a red-letter day. Not only does it cross the Pennines - the so-called backbone of the British Isles on whose flanks the Industrial Revolution gathered pace some 200 years ago - but in doing so it crosses the watershed on the Coast to Coast. From the summit of Nine Standards Rigg all rivers, including the infant headwaters of the Swale, which will be tracked over the next couple of stages, flow eastwards to drain into the North Sea.

We will pass from the county of Cumbria into Yorkshire, too.

Yet in spite of these significant landmarks, the one thing that most walkers remember about the transit of the Pennines is the peat bogs they have to negotiate along the way. No matter what the weather, it is a good idea to don gaiters.

We will be departing from Kirkby Stephen at 9:00am and should get to Keld around 4pm.

Setting out from mile 80 to mile 95 (yes, there does seem to be a bit of a difference in the mile covered and the starting and finishing point!):

Across Franks Bridge and head for the lane which becomes a broad path onto the Pennine Moors and the summit of Nine Standards Rigg (662m). Depending on the time of year there are three routes over and around Nine Standards; green (avoiding the summit) for winter and spring, red for early summer, and blue for late summer and autumn. All routes cross peat, which is notoriously boggy in wet weather, before descending to the River Swale and the road in to Keld.

No matter which route is chosen it seems that most walkers cannot resist stopping at Ravenseat Farm for a sit down and tea and scones before continuing on to Keld.


Nine Standards marks the point at which you cross from Cumbria into North Yorkshire, it is the start of the Yorkshire Dales, and a watershed for rivers flowing west or east. Nine Standards are a group of ancient legendary cairns that have stood the test of time. 

Keld is half way.

There is a farm cafe in Keld and a Country Inn serving evening meals.

C2C Stage 8: Keld to Reeth

Day 9 of the Coast to Coast walking holiday

Keld (350m) to Reeth (200m)
Distance 11 miles/17.5km – Strenuous - Height Gain 150m/490ft - 6.5 hours


The route stays high and crosses moorland that is scarred from a lead mining industry that disappeared at the end of the 19th century.

Note: There is nowhere to buy food or drink on this route so come prepared.

The wildlife along this walk can be abundant especially if you set off early. Along with rabbits there can be pheasants and even deer. However the route is mainly about archeology and the evidence about man's industrial enterprise in the far north of England. The landscape is forever scarred by the evidence of lead mining.

Departing from Keld at 9:00am we should arrive in Reeth by 3:30pm.

Starting at mile 95 we finish the day at mile 106/107:

From Keld the route climbs past Crackpot Hall and the ruins of Swinner Gill mine workings. 'Crackpot' means 'Deep hole or chasm that is the haunt of crows' not what we would usually associate with this word.

The path crosses the moor (580m) before dropping into Gunnerside Gill (400m) and then up onto Melbecks Moor (550m). From here a broad track descends gradually passing the ruins of Old Gang Smelting Mills to Surrender Bridge (350m) and another smelt mill. The last test of the day is to drop into Cringley Bottom, cross the stream and then continue over the farmland to Reeth.

Reeth is the archetypal Yorkshire dales village: flanked to north and south by mine-scarred valleys and ringed by dry-stone walls. At its heart lies a village green surrounded on all sides by several examples of Yorkshire hospitality: the tearoom and the pub. The village was used for many episodes of All Creatures, Great and Small.

There are a few village shops, cafes and pubs in Reeth.

C2C Stage 9: Reeth to Bolton on Swale

Day 10 of the walk.

Reeth (200m) to Bolton on Swale near Richmond (150m)
Distance 17 miles/27km - Long moderate - Height Gain 400m/1315ft - 8 hours

Setting out from Reeth at 8:45am we should arrive in Bolton on Swale at approximately 4:45pm for the transfer back to Richmond.

Starting out at mile 106/107:

we will pass through Richmond (mile 117) and carry on to Bolton on Swale at mile 124/125.

This is a much easier day’s walk across rolling countryside passing Marrick Priory, Marske village and Whitecliffe wood. We arrive in Richmond at lunchtime and then continue (to reduce the following day’s distance) to Bolton on Swale in the afternoon. Actually, Bolton on Swale is almost 8 miles on from Richmond!

There are a couple of lovely tracts of woodland on the section between Reeth and Richmond. This 12 1/2 mile (20km) section takes about 4 1/2 hours.

After lunch it will be out on the trail again, heading for Bolton on Swale some 7 1/2 miles away along a track which follows the River Swale.

Short transfer back to Richmond.

Founded by the Normans Richmond grew around the castle built on the ‘riche-mont’ or ‘strong-hill’ that gave the town its name and whose massive keep dominates all other buildings around.

Richmond has several banks, shops, pubs and cafes.

C2C Stage 10: Bolton on Swale to Ingleby Cross

Day 11 of the trip

After overnighting in Richmond we will be transferred back to Bolton on Swale to start the days walk.

Bolton on Swale, Richmond (150m) to Ingleby Cross (100m)
Distance 17 miles/27km - Long moderate - Height Gain 100m/330ft - 7.5 hours

We will be picked up in Richmond at 8:45am and transferred back to Bolton on Swale. We should arrive in Ingleby Cross around 4:30pm.

The walk will commence at mile 124/125 today and finish at mile 137:

In Bolton-on-Swale it is worth visiting the the churchyard, famous for its monument to Henry Jenkins, a local man who supposedly lived to 169 years old. The curch dates back to the 14th century.

The route to Danby Wiske is almost level and generally easy going, it crosses farmland. 


Danby Wiske at 110ft is the lowest inland point on route and is a tiny village with an 11th century church. The church is one of the very few in England that has no dedication. Only the solid oak door and the font are 11th century originals, although much of the north aisle is only slightly younger.

From the bridge corssing the River Wiske outside the village, it ispossible to see the outline of the Cleveland Hills in the distance. Unfortunately, half the Vale of Mawbray still lies ahead with 8 miles of country lanes and then farmland across the low lying Vale of Mowbray before reaching Ingleby Cross.

From here we walk a short distance to our accommodation in Arncliffe Wood.

If we arrive before 6pm it may be worth visiting Mount Grace Priory (see the next stage for more details).

Ingleby Cross marks the start of the North York Moors national park and the Cleveland Hills.

There are a few pubs serving evening meals.

C2C Stage 11: Ingleby Cross to Blakey Ridge

This is day 12 of our walking trip.

Ingleby Cross (100m) to Blakey Ridge (400m)
Distance 20 miles/32km - Strenuous - Height Gain 970m/3190ft - 8.5 hours

This looks like being a long day with 32km and 970m height gain. One comment is that we will need to be in good shape to reach Blakey Ridge without looking like an extra from a George Romero zombie movie on arrival.

This stage takes us through the North York Moors National Park, the third national park on the route with, it is said, the worlds largest expanse of heather. Depending on the weather, this could be a pleasant stage while we tramp up and down the moors with great views or a miserable, muddy, rain-soaked trudge with all views obscured by bone-chilling mist. I hope the weather is fine!


A rollercoaster day.

Today we set out from mile 137:

and finish at the 161 mile mark:

Setting out from Ingleby Cross at 8:30am, yes an early start, the walk begins with a climb up past the church (with its tripple-decker pulpit  and purple pews). 

The path will take us past Mount Grace Priory which was built in 1398 by the Carthusian order. The priory today, though definitely a ruin, is an absorbing one, and one that clearly shows in its foundations to the basic layout of the place. The restoration of cell number 8 (in the early 20th century) also makes clear that, for their time, these cells were remarkably comfortable, built on two floors with cabinets, a loom, a small bed, water closet and a small garden. With latrines fitted and clean water piped into every cell, the plumbing was ahead of its time. Unfortunately, little of the system remains today save for channels in which the water flowed around the priory. The Priory is open Thursday to Monday from 10am to 6pm. Cost: £4.50.

Wainwright's climbing trail meets the Cleveland Way which we will then follow for most of the way to Blakey Moor.

The trail continues steeply up through Arncliffe Wood (and there is plenty more ups on this stage!) with cleared forestry providing views back to the Vale of Mowbray. Next comes the heather-clad Scarth Wood Moor followed by Clain Wood before hauling ourselves up a steep, wooded climb onto Live Moor. 


[Here is another description of the route: The route descends into Scugdale (100m). Not keen to stay low the path climbs steadily at first then steeply onto Gold Hill (315m).]

It continues onto Carlton Moor (408m). At the far end of the moor is a trig point and a boundary maker, from where the North Sea should be visable beyond the industrial installations of Teeside.

The path then descends to Green Bank (300m). Once again it climbs going over Cringle Moor (430m), descends to 280m then back up to 400m, down again to 300m and then a final climb through the Wainstones onto Hasty Bank (398m) before descending to the road at Clay Bank Top (250m). If all the up and down seems like too much hard work there is a path that contours round the hills from Green Bank to Clay Bank.

A final steep ascent to Carr Ridge (390m) is followed by a gradual rise to the summit of Round Hill (454m), the highest point on the North York Moors. The path descends to Bloworth Crossing (400m) were it leaves the Cleveland Way and continues on an almost level disused railway line across the desolate moors to the remote Lion Inn on Blakey Ridge.

The North York Moors are covered in purple heather during late summer months.

Iron Ore has been mined for centuries from the Cleveland Hills. In 1861 rail tracks were laid across the moors to increase mining capacity. In the early 1900’s demand dropped and the railway was dismantled in 1929.

We expect to arrive at Lion Inn around 5pm.

C2C stage 12: Blakey Ridge to Grosmont

This day 13 of the holiday. Almost 2 weeks out on the track. I wonder how well we have coped!

Blakey Ridge (400m) to Grosmont (50m)
Distance 15 miles/24km - Long moderate. - Height Gain 100m/330ft - 6 hours

We depart at 9:00am and should reach Grosmont around 3pm.

Our starting point is at the 161.5 mile point and we finish the day at the 175 mile mark:

For those who enjoy cosy English villages hidden amongst the gentlest, most bucolic scenery the country has to offer, the stroll down the Esk Valley from Glaisdale to Grosmont may be the best section of this walk. The nostalgic 60s village booby TV show, Heartbeat, was filmed near here.

The route takes us across areas with great names: Fat Betty, where tradition requires you to both take and leave a snack or sweet;  Great Fryup and Glaisdale Moor.


High on the moors we follow a road for a few miles before returning to tracks through the heathers. Another road walk and then the route takes a broad disused track gradually descending Glaisdale Moor into Glaisdale village but not before tracking along Glaisdale Rigg past various standing stones and a particularly well-hewn boundary marker. The North Sea should have been sighted as we head towards Glaisdale.

The village of Glaisdale sprawls across its lofty perch above the Esk Valley.

We leave Glaisdale and the route, never far from the River Esk, passes through East Arncliffe Wood to Egton Bridge where it follows a once toll road through the private estate of Egton Manor to Grosmont.

The North York Moors Railway's steam train leaves Grosmont between four and eight time a day depending on teh season. Some trains are drawn by a diesel engine rather than a steam engine. The trains go to Whitby (20 minutes) and to Middlesborough (70 minutes). There is a train that leaves Grosmont at 4:35pm and arrives in Whitby at 5pm. The return train leaves Whitby at 5:30pm and arrives in Grosmont at 5:50pm. The cost for a senior retun is £9.

There is a pub serving evening meals, a few cafes and shops inthe village (of Grosmont)

C2C stage 13: Grosmont to Robin Hoods Bay

This is day 14 of the trip and the last walking day.

Grosmont (50m) to Robin Hoods Bay.
Distance 15 miles/24km - Long moderate - Height Gain 475m/1560ft - 7 hours

There is a warning in Henry Steedman's guide: "Don't be fooled into thinking this [last stage] is a mere formality as the climb out of Grosmont will soon demonstrater. It is a long stretch totalling 15 1/2 miles (25km) with enough ups and downs to ensure you arrive in Robin Hood's Bay suitably dishevelled." After 12 days of walking this sounds ominous.

Departing from Grosmont at 9:00am we should arrive in Robin Hoods Bay around 4pm.

Setting out from the 175 mile point today we finish up at mile post 190:

The road climbs steeply out of Grosmont (its not called the 1 in 3 for nothing) to its high point on Sleights Moor (285m), there are wonderful views to Whitby and the sea. Slights Moor is part of the intriguingly named Eskdaleside cum Ugglebarnby. The first climb of the day is 230m. There are views north-east to the well-ventilated ruins of Whitby Abbey or back down into misty Eskdale.

The path passes five ancient standing monoliths called the High Bride Stones.

Still on heather moorland the route descends into Littlebeck (50m).

Littlebeck is another tiny hamlet with a lengthy past. It was once a centre of alum-mining in the 17th to 19th centuries. Alum is used for dyeing as well as tanning leather.

The village was home to woodcarver Thomas Whittaker and his cottage, Woodcarver's Cottage, is on the bend above the Old Mill.

Pretty as Littlebeck is, it is nothing when compared with the wonderful Little Beck Wood. This 65 acres of woodland is filled with oak trees, deer, badgers, foxes and birdlife galore.

Before leaving the woods there is Falling Foss, a 20m-high waterfall alongside the former ruins of Midge Hall, now rebuilt and coverted into the Falling Foss Tea Garden, a great place for a coffee and cake or a light lunch.

After the woodland walk it climbs back up to 200m and crosses a final stretch of moorland before following country lanes to the coast. We turn south to follow the coastal path to Robin Hoods Bay and the sea. Follow tradition once more by dipping our boot in the sea and throwing our pebble in (that should baffle the geologists in years to come).

The challenge is complete.

In the Bay Hotel you can sign the Coast to Coast book.

There are several pubs and cafes open daily for food and drinks. There are also several gift shops.

Kangaroos are fascinating ... particularly for overseas visitors

This week we had visitors from Canada. When we were in Canada last year we caught up with my 4th cousin Irene Cambridge who lives in the Vancouver area. This year we were able to reciprocate Irene's hospitality and have her and her friend Cathy (who was one of our chauffeurs) stay with us.

Australian fauna is so different from the creatures most people are familiar with that they really are fascinating to visitors and Irene and Cathy were no exception. We spent quite a bit of time observing kangaroos and their behaviour ... they can be really entertaining and they were. Cathy got very good at kangaroo spotting and the kangaroos just kept appearing.

Unfortunately we didn't manage to see any emus. They were not in any of the usual spots out at Tinbinbilla.

Irene and Cathy had spent a day in Brisbane before flying on to Canberra. We picked them up on Tuesday morning and waited for Antony, Nic and Astrid to arrive so that Irene could meet them before they flew out for Paris.

While Trevor took Antony's car, we girls headed off to see Floriade. It is amazing just how well the floral displays had survived both the time (it is now into the 4th week) and the weather.

On leaving the flowers we went over to the National Library to see their stained glass windows and also looked at their treasures exhibition.

Back in the car we zipped passed a number of places of interest before stopping for a look at Government House and then winding our way through the suburbs before arriving home.

Trevor took Irene and Cathy over to Antony's to meet Inti and Chimu and the other resident animals.

On Wednesday we headed out to the Tinbinbilla Nature Reserve where we were able to see lots of kangaroos but not a single emu. Next stop was the Tinbinbilla Tracking Station. The display was fascinating and the size of the biggest dish is something that needs to be seen to appreciate.

From the other side of the river we headed back into the city and the National Botanical Gardens. We were able to join a guided walk which was great. There were an abundance of plants in bloom, too, and great views across the city from a number of points.

Next came the Black Mountain Tower and views across the area.

On the way home we stopped at Woden to pick up an adaptor for Irene as the one she had did not plug in to our power points. We found an appropriate one in the first place we went to.

After we got home we picked up Trevor and headed out to Mt. Taylor for a spot of local kangaroo spotting. Our hoppy friends did not disappoint and even demonstrated the ease with which they jump over fences.

We were planning to have a BBQ for dinner however Trevor had not checked the gas cylinder which turned out to be empty. I'm sure that Irene and Cathy will have other BBQ opportunities before their trip is over.

The weather on Thursday was wet and grey but that did not stop us heading out into the country. We called passed the Family History Centre at Lyneham before driving to Yass and then back to Cooma Cottage and lunch in Murrumbateman. The afternoon was spent at the War Memorial.

Great Alpine Walk

Yes, we are at it again. Another walk. This time it is in the Victorian High Country. Once again we have opted for a group guided walk where our bags will be transported for us so we only need to carry a day pack.

Here is the interary ...

Day 1:
We will be picked up at Melbourne airport at 10:00am and head off to the Falls Creek Alpine Village (where we will be staying for 3 nights) via Glenrowan and Mt. Beauty. On arrival there will be a stroll around the village (1 hour, easy).

Not very strenuous at all!

Day 2:
Initially we will follow the Aqueduct Trail which is connected to one of Australia's early hydro-electricity schemes. Mountain cattlemen's huts feature prominently on this holiday and we will get to visit the oldest one in Victoria, Wallace's Hut as well as Cope Hut, once known as the "Menzies of the High Country". The ancient snow gums in this area are twisted and gnarled by centuries of harsh winters. The route continues around the shores of Rocky Valley dam to our lunch spot. The morning walk should take around 4 hours.

After lunch there will be a choice:
Easy: following the lake shore back to the bus (1-2 hours)
Harder: Hike to the summit of Mt McKay with stunning 360 degree views (2-3 hours) then through the Falls Creek Alpine ski area back to the lodge.

Overnight: Falls Creek

Day 3:
Today the hike will take us to some of Falls Creeks peaks as well as another couple of historic huts.

The route begins along easy aqueduct trails again before climbing up through gently graded snow plains to visit the secluded Fitgeralds Hut. Next will be Edmondsons Hut which will be the lunch stop amongst the snow gums. (4 hours)

The afternoon options:
Easy: Along Watchbed Creek and back to the bus (2 hours)
More challenging: Up onto Heathy Spur and then cross country on a compass bearing to Roper Lookout. The track then descends to the shores of Rocky Valley Dam (3-4 hours).

Overnight in Falls Creek.

Day 4:
A challenging day. It is possible to walk from Falls Creek to Mt Hotham. Very few people have done this walk, even amongst the locals (they aren't silly ... they drive!).

Challenging option: Follow a section of the 750km Alpine Walking Track (which runs between Walhalla and Canberra) all the way to Mt Hotham. There won't be many people out on this track, if any at all, however there is a chance to see brumbies (wild horses). Along the way, we will drop steeply down to the Cobungra River and Dibbins Hut (yes, another hut ... this one is sometimes called "Creep-Inn" and I'm curious to find out why), and then back through the Mt Hotham ski village. The days' walking finishes with a stroll through the Davenport area of Hotham village. (around 7 hours)

More leisurely option: a two hour walk and then by bus to Mt Hotham.

Overnight: Dinner Plain

Day 5:
An easier day ... well after Day 4 ...

The walk neanders through snow gum forests and across thick snow grass plains. The standard 10km track to Dinner Plain is easy (4 hours).

Challenging addition: It is possible to add an option 9km walk to Mt Tabletop (3 hours challenging). Accessing this remote mountain requires some off track walking over uneven terrain. Cattle grazed these plains until quite recent times. There are more historic huts as well as some cattle yards made by felling trees into piles.

Either way, we will walk into Dinner Plain, the highest freehold land in Australia, where every building is constructed of mud brick, weathered timber, local rock and galvanised iron.

Overnight: Dinner Plain

Day 6:
Another big walking day.

The hiking starts along the breathtaking Razorback Ridge, one of the most dramatic walking routes in Australia. My Feathertop will gradually appear more and more impressively. The final (optional) steep climb to the summit (of Mt Feathertop?) is supposedly a ripper.

The rest of the day will be spent walking down the gently graded Bungalow spur to the township of Harriettville (7 hours challenging). The spur is covered by tall mountain ash trees, many of which stand stark and white following the bushfires of 2003.

Harrietville is built on mine tailings created by a huge dredge called the Tronah Monster, which was sold to a tin miner in Malasia in the 1930s. Today it's a friendly holiday village with a laid-back atmosphere.

More leisurely option: An out and back walk along the Razorback (4-5 hours moderate).

Overnight: Harrietville

Day 7:
An easy 2 hour walk through Bright Gorge finishes off the walking for this holiday.

After morning tea in Bright, travel back to Melbourne, arriving at the airport at about 4pm.

We will be doing this walking holiday with auswalk.

When are we off? January 2013 ... and Trevor has already booked and paid the deposit.